O'Howell Mountain is becoming the Nirvana of vineyard property in the Napa valley. Some of the most prestigious wines being made today are coming off this mountain and there are very few wines from the Howell Mountain appellation that haven't just plain knocked my socks off. With that, it was with great excitement that I got to visit the estate on which Betty O'Shaughnessy has built her winery.
Finding the winery is a tad tricky -- driving through what seems a private gate, there is almost a two-mile drive on a single lane before the building appears. At elevation 1,900, the estate is 36 acres of buildings and vineyards, but it is discreetly hidden among the forest and natural landscaping on the mountain. I don't have a confirmation, but I wonder if the building architect and landscape architect were not one and the same -- or at least worked closely together.
The interior of the building complex is stunningly appointed with custom-designed furniture and amazing artwork. The stonework in the building is Sonora Gold, the tables throughout the reception area were all custom-made from rare, West African hardwoods like exotic babinka. There is a wine library which plays center stage that was designed similar to that at Aureole in Las Vegas; entirely vertical and temperature-controlled (I regret that my photograph was mostly reflection of the glass, hence it is not posted). Also cleverly included in the tasting area is an indoor/outdoor fireplace, meaning it was designed to be accessible from both the inside reception area and the outdoor seating area.
Sean Capiaux is the resident winemaker, but was also instrumental in the design of the stainless steel tanks used in the production. With a self-contained pumping, heating, and cooling system, each tank can be automatically and independently controlled. As the winery is producing less than 1,500 cases, Sean is also actively working on developing is own namesake wines with five, vineyard-specific Pinot Noir under the name Capiaux Cellars.
I meant to ask if Sean was involved in the design of the caves, for they are truly stupendous as well. It is pretty rare to find caves that are double-wide -- that is, instead of an aisle down the middle with barrels up against the walls, there are actually two aisles with four rows of barrels in 12,000 square-feet of caves. These barrels contain the two different Cabernets that O'Shaughnessy produces, one from their Howell Mountain estate and another from a smaller, Mount Veeder vineyard.
I was fortunate to visit and they welcome guests for tours, but could only taste upcoming offerings from barrels (pulled by Sean himself!) as current offerings were already sold out and there was none to be had for purchase. Sadly, this is a pretty standard occurrence and is not too surprising considering the quality of the wine and I'm sure even future releases will sell out quickly. They welcome visitors with grace and charm, but if you go, don't get your hopes of being able to take any bottles with you, but maybe getting on the mailing list will confirm some in the future!
2003 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon - Already incredibly smooth, the dark, inky purple juice produced plummy, blackberry tones with even, opulent spice qualities. With some swirling, the spices opened up to produce Moroccan-like qualities of elegance with cinnamon, ginger, clove, and sumac. There was some rustic, tobacco qualities on the finish. Only 1,200 cases to be produced. Price unknown.
2003 Mount Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon - Again, intensely dark fruit of black cherry more so than the berries of Howell Mountain. Just as jammy in its concentration with more bright fruit up front that tames down to a balanced, perfectly tannic elegance that is bold and smooth. Only 150 cases to be produced. Price unknown.
O'Shaughnessy Estate Winery ~ P.O. Box 923 ~ Angwin ~ CA ~ 94508 ~ 707-965-2898
OK...I think this makes 4 or 5 "must visit's" when we come for our 2 weeks in April. O'Shaughnessy looks absolutely stunning, and even if there is no wine to purchase, a trip to see the facility seems very worthwhile.
We've had Capieaux Pinot at Bistro Jeanty, but I didnt know anything about the winemaker. Thanks for the info!
Posted by: Ron Cali | March 28, 2005 at 07:50 AM
You said it! Socks off to O'Shaughnessy. Wow!
Posted by: Don Fadden | April 21, 2005 at 01:21 PM